The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Crisco Brownies

1/3 cupful molasses 1/3 cupful sugar 1/3 cupful Crisco 2 eggs 1 cupful flour 1 cupful chopped nut meats 1/4 teaspoonful salt ½ teaspoonful vanilla extract Cream Crisco and sugar together, add eggs well beaten, molasses, extract, flour, salt and nuts. Divide into small fancy Criscoed tins , or bake in Criscoed sheet tin and cut in squares. Bake in moderate oven half hour. These are a cross between cake and candy.

Sufficient for twelve squares.

For the Modern Kitchen

An early molasses brownie with no chocolate in it at all. The ingredient list as printed here is incomplete, which is the first thing to deal with.

A Little History

Crisco appeared in 1911, and the promotional cookbooks that followed it were written to prove the new hydrogenated vegetable shortening could stand in for butter and lard anywhere a household used them, brownies included. The recipe is a useful reminder that "brownie" did not originally mean chocolate: the earliest printed versions, from the turn of the century onward, are often molasses- or nut-based bars, and the name is generally traced to their brown colour rather than to any particular ingredient. Chocolate brownies existed alongside them and eventually took the word over entirely, which is why a chocolate-free brownie now reads as an error rather than a variant. The description "a cross between cake and candy" is doing the same work a modern headnote does, telling a cook who has never met the thing what to expect from the pan.

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