The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Rose Leaves

1 cupful sugar 6 tablespoonfuls Crisco 2 eggs 1/4 teaspoonful salt 1 teaspoonful rose extract 2 cupfuls flour Cream Crisco, adding sugar gradually, then stir in eggs well beaten; add salt, extract, and flour. The dough should be soft. Now chill dough, then roll very thin, using sugar instead of flour, to dust rolling-pin and board. Cut out with small fancy cutter. Place on tins greased with Crisco and bake in moderate oven eight or ten minutes or until slightly browned. Sufficient for fifty small cakes. 1 cupful flour

For the Modern Kitchen

A thin rolled sugar cookie scented with rose, from the Crisco promotional cookbook. The dough is very short and the sugar-dusted rolling surface is the part that makes or breaks it.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was a cookbook written to sell a product: Procter & Gamble had introduced hydrogenated cottonseed shortening in 1911, and the book's recipes exist to demonstrate that it could replace both butter and lard in every department of cooking, hence the insistence on Crisco for the pans as well as the dough. Rose flavouring in baking is much older than the shortening; rose water was a standard sweet perfume in English and American kitchens from the medieval period onward, and it lingered in cake and cookie recipes well into the nineteenth century before vanilla displaced it. By 1913 concentrated "rose extract" was sold alongside lemon and almond in the bottled-flavouring trade, though whether that is why this recipe calls for extract rather than the older distilled water is a matter of inference. The name is often said simply to describe the result: thin, pale, fancy-cut wafers meant for a tea tray.

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