Cornmeal Mush

A plain porridge whose only technical demand is the slurry: pre-moistening the meal with cold water is what keeps it from seizing into lumps the instant it hits the boil.

• The hingeTurn the cold-water slurry into actively boiling water, not merely hot water, and stir without pause until it thickens. Meal dropped into water below the boil hydrates unevenly and sets into lumps that no later stirring will break up.
• Cornmeal to useA medium or coarse stone-ground yellow or white meal gives the texture the book assumes. Fine degerminated supermarket meal thickens faster and tastes flatter; instant or self-rising cornmeal mixes will not behave the same at all.
• About the three to four hoursThat length reflects slower stoves and coarser meal than most cooks have now. Over simmering water, mush is generally cooked through and free of raw starch flavor in something like 45 to 60 minutes with occasional stirring; longer cooking mainly deepens the flavor.
• Double boilerIts purpose is to prevent scorching, since thick starch on direct heat catches almost immediately. A heavy-bottomed saucepan over the lowest flame works if you stir every few minutes; the water bath simply forgives neglect.
• Ratio and consistency1 cup meal to 3 1/2 cups total water gives a soft, spoonable mush. For a firm loaf to slice and fry, cut the water to about 3 cups; for a thinner breakfast porridge, add boiling water at the end rather than at the start.
• YieldAbout 4 cups cooked, serving four at breakfast with milk, butter, molasses or maple syrup.
• The second mealMush was commonly packed into a loaf pan, chilled until firm, then sliced about 1/2 inch thick and fried in butter or oil until crusted. It is essentially the same treatment given to fried polenta, and arguably better than the porridge.