Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Plaza Tomatoes

Plaza Tomatoes

3 tomatoes 1 tablespoon grated cheese 1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons bread crumbs 1 tablespoon cream 1 teaspoon minced onion Paprika and salt Cut three tomatoes of uniform size in half and take out the pulp. Sprinkle the shell with salt and put the pulp in a saucepan with the cheese, onion, cream, paprika, salt, bread and a teaspoon of sugar. Cook a few minutes, then put the mixture in the halves with butter on top. Put into the oven, and cook until browned.

Serve each half on a piece of buttered toast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward stuffed tomato from the era when a hot vegetable dish on toast counted as a main course. The recipe assumes you know how to handle a tomato shell, and gives no oven temperature at all.

A Little History

Meatless cookery of the 1910s and 1920s leaned hard on the tomato, which was cheap, arrived in quantity every August, and had enough savory depth -- glutamates, though nobody phrased it that way -- to stand in for a meat course. Stuffed tomatoes appear in dozens of vegetarian and wartime-economy books of the period, usually filled with rice, crumbs, cheese or a combination. The "Plaza" in the title is the sort of hotel-borrowed name that publishers and home cooks attached freely to dishes at the time; New York's Plaza Hotel opened in 1907, though the attribution here is decorative rather than documented. The teaspoon of sugar is worth noticing: it turns up often enough in American tomato cookery of the era, and is commonly explained as a way to round out fruit that had been picked firm and shipped.

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